Pics

Road Trippin..

I don't really know what it is about the idea of road tripping that appeals to so many climbers. I think it's a subconscious effort to explore the same way our ancestors did, or maybe it's just because road trips are fun as hell. I dunno, but like all climbers I love a good road trip. But after sitting and thinking about it, there really is no reason for myself or any other southeastern climber to ever strive to get away. I mean I can think of at least 30 different amazing climbing crags located within 2 hours driving distant from my house in Huntsville, Alabama, and this is just off the top of my head because there are a shit ton small secret areas and access sensitive places that we try and stay away from. I bet if I sat down with some friends and thought about it we could come up with 100 solid crags located right here in the dirty,maybe more, and this doesn't even include North Carolina, Kentucky, West Virginia, and the rash but climbable South Carolina.

Now for those of you who are picturing a random boulder here or a chossy face there, you're wrong; every crag I can think of is amazing. Amazing not only because of the quantity, but also the quality. When you go climbing in the south you aren't going out to visit one random face; every area is packed full of rock. Most areas host hundreds of routes and problems, and there are always potential for more.

Over the last 8 years I've climbed a good few places in the country, and to find places with so much potential for new lines is very rare. For example, in a lot of the other popular areas in the country you find the new routes or boulder problems being established are just extensions of old ones, or they're just contrived line of older problems, but not here! If I were a betting man I would be willing to say there are still thousands upon thousands of fresh lines all over the south, even in the most developed areas, just waiting for the right person to come along.

A good example is about 2 years ago my buddy Nathan and I got tired of climbing other people lines at the famous but over developed Horse pens 40 and began picking our own lines. This takes work and a certain eye, which I think come from experience, but every now and then we 'd spot a boulder with some excellent moves stuck right between two classics, and boom there you have a solid FA. Some lines are more beautiful than others, but none the less each one is perfect in the mind of the creator. These problems usually never get named or graded, and will probably get written off never to be published unless one of "the boys" sees the chalk, climbs the line and declares it another one of their FA's, but even that doesn't matter. Sometimes the art is not in the boulder problem itself but in the actual creation of the line. Sort of like a beautiful song played directly from a musician's mind never to be written down or remembered. That musician is creating something so personal and special that the moment doesn't have to last forever, it's perfect as is. Not all art has to be tangible sometimes the act of creation is what is so special.

Next time you're out climbing, take a gander, find a fresh line and climb it, cherish it, love it because it's yours, no one can take that away from you, it's your art, your interpretation of what rock climbing should be. Until next time, here are a fews pics of the southeast.

InSaNe

I injured my finger exactly 18 days ago. I'm not new to this game I know everything there is to know about finger injuries and everything that goes along with it. I been resting for 18 days now no climbing, hardly any pullups pretty much can't do anything that requires pulling. I'm going crazy I usually injure my self during summers trying too hard on plastic, but now I'm missing the season! and I'm only getting older, if you think about it I only prolly got 10 more seasons before I start getting all old and broken.

Anyways..........check out the video of Chris Sharma on his new route Golpe de Estado 5.15b!!!!!!!!!! INSANE and totally inspiring. Next time your working your project and you get a bit down on yourself just remember the mantra "what one man can do another can do" and try just a bit harder.

http://www.bigupproductions.com/#/clips/

Missing in Action..........and a bit of history

For the few buddies who read this: in case you've been wondering where I've been the last couple weeks, the ole finger is still screwed to hell!! Did pull ups on a bar yesterday for the first time in about a month and there was still a lot of pain. I'm thinking it's now gonna be at least a couple more weeks. Just know that I miss you and I may be completely insane soon if I can't get back out.

The MeatLocker II is coming together well. I've had a lot of time to work on it due to lack of actual climbing. As of now I have a 8ft long by 11ft high wall at 45 degrees, an 18ft long by 4ft wide roof that start about 4ft off the ground and runs at a slight angle to the top of my garage door and has a campus box sit start (rad!!), and a 5ft long by 11ft high power enduro wall that isn't quite as overhung as the 45 wall but is still gonna be baller! Next, I'll be building a pretty substantial campus board which will be about 6ft wide by 8ft tall with several different type rungs! I'm hoping to have the whole thing finished in the next couple weeks.

Now for holds??? I have about 150, but am gonna need much more than that to outfit the wall. If anyone out there has some old ones laying around and would like to donate to the Meatlocker II, shoot me an email at henson12@gmail.com. I would really appreciate it and could return the favor with a place to pull when it's raining or even a guided tour of the south. I may even take you to a few secret spots!!

Last but not least, I was reading a very interesting article on Sonnie Trotter's site about the history of training, and it got me thinking about all the time I've spent researching and reading everything I could find about climbing and the history of climbing. I really think it's important to know the history behind anything you're passionate about. I know that majority of climbers are younger now and probably haven't taken the time to sit down and learn about our sport, so I recommend that the next time you're surfing the web to read a bit about the history of rock climbing. It's important to know how we've come so far in a still little known sport, and to pay respect to the pioneers, rebels, free spirits who said fuck society and getting a job, I'm going climbing. They're the reason we have routes and boulder problems. They are the reason we can run to the local shop and grab a rope or crash pad. If it wasn't for them we would be just another group of lost souls searching for their place on this earth. Here are a few sites, you can take it from here. Peace and until next time, Lay off dem holiday carbs your climbing will thank you come January!

http://sonnietrotter.com/history/

http://www.johngill.net/

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latley i've been addicted to Sonnie Trotter's blog. the guy is awesome and is definitley someone I look up to. check his site at http://sonnietrotter.com/roadlife/. i've decided his blog was so interesting because most entries were short and to the point. not always about climbing but relevant. anyway i am going to start using his style, maybe get a few folks to read my stuff.

ok now that that's out of the way thought I'd let you guys know that the meatlocker II is coming along well. i finished framing the steep wall and the cave, and plan on finishing the power endurance wall and campus board tomorrow. i know there are a bunch of psyched huntsville climbers awaiting the grand opening so I'm working as fast as possible. I been thinking about maybe getting insurance and charging peeps just the bare minimium to pay the insurance. Sort of a non-profit gym with a cardio machines, kettle balls, crossfit equipment etc. anyway if anyone from huntsville reads this let me know what you think of that. I don't plan on charging much maybe $10 a month, just have to see about the insurance. anyway if i could get enough climbers psyched on the meatlocker maybe i would actually move it into an old warehouse and build a propper gym.

I was planning on posting some pics of the gym's progress, but have decided to keep it a secret until i finish it. i promise its gonna be rad, the new spot to breed the next generation southern mutants. if you have any questions about the gym, training, or injuries dont be scared to contact me.

climb on
ben