It's been a crazy long time since I've been on a rope. Here in da souf the bouldering game in the winter is just too damn fantastic to worry about lactic acid, however this doesn't mean I don't love route climbing cause I do. When I first started climbing in 01 Sandrock was the place of choice; there were access issues a this place called Horsepens and you had to sneak in, plus there was always this tall blond headed dude and his posse staring you down, I mean who wanted that? Now fast forward almost 10 years later I still love Sandrock, the routes are awesome, I spend most my days at Horsepens and that tall blond dude is now the kingpin and a pretty nice dude. I love climbing!
OK, so I went to Sandrock yesterday after being out of the route game since early last fall. As usual I got my ass kicked climbed a couple moderates and after about 2 hours felt like I could lay down and sleep about 20 hours. It's easy to forget just how taxing route climbing is. First you have to load this heavy pack full of gear and walk, then unload your shit, strap your nuts in a vice which coincidentally is a key piece of gear for protecting your life, then you boulder like 5-10 boulder problems back to back, come down stare up for 10 minutes until your neck feels like its breaking, pack up and start all over. No wonder route climbers are usually such skinny fucks!
So this sounds like a terrible time but alas it's amazing, and I love it! I just wish I could climb full time so I could really dedicate more time to getting better at it before it gets really cold and boulders begin to shimmer with friction.
So the moral of this story is damn I need to train more I'm such a puss!
Love you all,
EZ
Ps, Tyler and Katie killed it as usual with some new hard sends! Oh what it must be like to be a young prodigy with no body fat and all the time in the world!
Monday, June 28, 2010
Friday, June 25, 2010
174 and dropping!
That's right the first time since August of 09 I'm under 175 biotches!
So I challenged myself to a 100 day of running. I have to run at least 1 mile although I always try for more for at least 100 days. I'm on day 25 I've lost 8lbs since I started! Also I'm eating as close to Paleo as possible with a few cheats like brown rice. Haven't had a slice of bread in two weeks either, most of my carb intake has been coming from bananas and apples and the brown rice. Oh yeah and I pretty much cut alcohol out of my diet too. I know what you might be saying...EZ just aint EZ without his nalgene full of vodka and redbull, but fear not as soon as I hit my goals I'll be back running round the boulders drink in hand get my send on!
Last week was a rest week for training I finished my 12 weeks of initial power to try and regain some of what I had lost over the last year. This week started a Power Endurance cycle which will last 3 weeks. Basically I run circuit laps on the bouldering wall until I can't hold on any more and do this over and over. I was able to hold on for a little over 3 minutes which is shit if you're a route climber. My goal is 10 minutes by the end if this cycle. Then I'll start another 6 week power cycle to start gearing up for the season.
Oh yeah and I'm planning on adding some p90 to my workouts too. I've done p90 in the past and it definitely works, however this time I'm planning on altering the plan to eliminate and leg exercises and replace those days for the core synergictics. If you know me then you know legs are the last thing I need to work on since I'm built more like an MMA fighter than a rock climber--F U GENETICS I WILL OVERCOME! haha just kidding
Now on to some goals for the next 6 months:
Routes Boulders
4-12a's 5-v6's
3-12b's 4-v7's
2-12c's 3-v8's
1-12d v9
If I send anything harder awesome if I complete my goals awesome if I dont still awesome that I am still healthy to climb and I'll work harder!
Peacers
EZ
So I challenged myself to a 100 day of running. I have to run at least 1 mile although I always try for more for at least 100 days. I'm on day 25 I've lost 8lbs since I started! Also I'm eating as close to Paleo as possible with a few cheats like brown rice. Haven't had a slice of bread in two weeks either, most of my carb intake has been coming from bananas and apples and the brown rice. Oh yeah and I pretty much cut alcohol out of my diet too. I know what you might be saying...EZ just aint EZ without his nalgene full of vodka and redbull, but fear not as soon as I hit my goals I'll be back running round the boulders drink in hand get my send on!
Last week was a rest week for training I finished my 12 weeks of initial power to try and regain some of what I had lost over the last year. This week started a Power Endurance cycle which will last 3 weeks. Basically I run circuit laps on the bouldering wall until I can't hold on any more and do this over and over. I was able to hold on for a little over 3 minutes which is shit if you're a route climber. My goal is 10 minutes by the end if this cycle. Then I'll start another 6 week power cycle to start gearing up for the season.
Oh yeah and I'm planning on adding some p90 to my workouts too. I've done p90 in the past and it definitely works, however this time I'm planning on altering the plan to eliminate and leg exercises and replace those days for the core synergictics. If you know me then you know legs are the last thing I need to work on since I'm built more like an MMA fighter than a rock climber--F U GENETICS I WILL OVERCOME! haha just kidding
Now on to some goals for the next 6 months:
Routes Boulders
4-12a's 5-v6's
3-12b's 4-v7's
2-12c's 3-v8's
1-12d v9
If I send anything harder awesome if I complete my goals awesome if I dont still awesome that I am still healthy to climb and I'll work harder!
Peacers
EZ
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Training Journal
So I moved to Birmingham in March with the worst fitness I've ever had. I was fat, weak, tired but that had to change!! I got determined, syked, pissed off what ever you wanna call it but in short I got motivated to get stronger than I've ever been. The scene in Birmingham has really exploded in the last year with the opening of First Ave http://firstaverocks.com/. The place is rad! Dedicated pretty much to training the FAR hosts several sick angle boulder walls along with a School Room Moon wall, two system walls, a campus board, hangboard station with my favorite hangboard (the Moon Board) as well as full fledged crossfit area. It was time to get to business. Now I'm no stranger to training as a matter of fact several years ago I was known for my intensity during sessions, if I wasn't screaming I wasn't trying hard enough, but where'd it all go. Well it's back and more syked than ever to push through the weakness and pain and help me get my shit back together.
So here's a short summary of each week from my journal entry to get you guys syked, not gonna post everything this biotch would be too long.
Week 1: Went to the bldrfields twice felt fucking weak v2s were hard couldn't make the 2nd move on pile. A good friend came in town from NC and I took the rest of the week off drank beer shit! gotta get more syked. Weight - 185lbs BF 25%
Week 2: Jogged 4 days, Went to the bldrfields Monday-Wed and the climbing gym (FAR) on Thursday still feel very week and heavy. Did a good set of deadhangs on the Moonboard top edges 5 sets of 10 seconds and killed a core work out. Rested the weekend.
Week 3: Jogged 1.5 miles Monday-Friday. Mon. & Tues. went to the bldrfields starting to feel a bit stronger sent a couple v4s and made it to the end of a Pile v6 but no send. Wed. went to the FAR did a sick deadhang workout crimps, slopes pinches, campus brd w/ feet on, also did chest, shoulders, tri's and core!! Thurs. went back to bldrfields sent a v4 that I work on Tues. tried a bunch other problems! Gettin stronger so syked!
Week 4: Jogged everyday but Tues. Monday FAR - 5 sets 4x4's; System training, fingerboard, forearm curls. Tues. played bball did some pullups at the playground, chest/tris/shoulders. Wed. bldrfields feeling stronger. Thurs. bldrfields sent Pile v6. Sat FAR fingerboard, weighted pullups, core, forearm curls. 178lbs-24.5bf
Week 5: Mon. bldrfields worked Trip v5 and The Tree v7. Tues ran before work and at lunch went to the FAR bouldered 1 hour, fingerboard, forearm and core. Wed. jogged 2 miles played bball 45 minutes pullups on the monkey bars. Thurs. Super tired took a nap after work, went to the gym bouldered v4-v5 problems, 3 sets of 4x4's feeling pumped, fingerboard, core and pushups. Friday ran. Sat ran, pushups, arm burn out: bi's/tris/shoulders- 176.4lbs 21.9%bf
Week 6: Mon- Fri ran 2 miles ran twice on Tues and Fri. Mon FAR strength weight pullups, one arm locks, frenchies. Tues bball pushups and dips. Wed bldrfields feeling stronger work the Tree. Thurs FAR climbed 1 hour worked the fingerbrd. Fri FAR fingerbrd, pullups, core. Sat pushups.
Week 7: Super tired, No running ate bad, Tues went to bldrfields tired, Wed FAR tired, rested rest of the week
Week 8: Off week, did go to the bldrfields on Wed but felt tired. no motivation ate bad. Figured out why I have been so tired I'm allergic to b12 I started taking 500mcg 2 weeks ago stopped on Thurs of this week felt almost 100% by Sat.
Week 9: Mon feeling better FAR bouldered 1 hour v3-v5, system wall lockoffs, down campus, one arm locks big rubber band, killed core, fingerboard. Bldrfields worked Reignition v9 hard barely made the 2nd and 3rd moves, left went to climbing gym bouldered some more, chest and shoulders. Wed rest. Thurs. bldrfields climbed for fun.
Week 10: Ran every day this week. Mon FAR power, 10 hard boulder problem attempts, followed by 3 PE laps, 3x10 system wall deadpoints, deadpoints right and left hand grabs, 5x6 explosive pullups, 10 feet cuts. Tues. 10 hard boulders, 3 sets system locks-weak, 5 campus to lockoff-weak, 3 x system walls (slopers, gaston, undercling, pinches)-weak, core. Wed-antagonists, Thurs bldrfields Reiginition made 5 moves feeling stronger v3/4 circuit
Week 11: Ran everyday. Mon rest, Tues. ADD-ON Barrel wall 45 minutes, 3 system lock off, frenchies-weak, 3x4 lockoffs medium band, core. Wed - antagonists, Thurs - Boulderfields reignition rained out.
Week 12: Ran everyday. Mon bldrfields stuck crimp pinch for the first time and held on Reignition that rig is gonna go first cool day. Tues. FAR climbed 1 hour, 3 system campus-weak, 5 square lock offs on crimp system, Killed core! Wed- antagonists. Thurs. climbed 30 minutes elbow starting to hurt need a rest week.
Week 13: This week will be a rest week for climbing plan on running a ton and killing my core. Starting Power endurance next week.
OK well this was longer than I planned hope you were able to sort through it. It's been a successful 12 weeks of power and strength. I feel I improved on both a good bit. Still not pleased got a long way to go. Holler if you have any questions!
Peace,
EZ
So here's a short summary of each week from my journal entry to get you guys syked, not gonna post everything this biotch would be too long.
Week 1: Went to the bldrfields twice felt fucking weak v2s were hard couldn't make the 2nd move on pile. A good friend came in town from NC and I took the rest of the week off drank beer shit! gotta get more syked. Weight - 185lbs BF 25%
Week 2: Jogged 4 days, Went to the bldrfields Monday-Wed and the climbing gym (FAR) on Thursday still feel very week and heavy. Did a good set of deadhangs on the Moonboard top edges 5 sets of 10 seconds and killed a core work out. Rested the weekend.
Week 3: Jogged 1.5 miles Monday-Friday. Mon. & Tues. went to the bldrfields starting to feel a bit stronger sent a couple v4s and made it to the end of a Pile v6 but no send. Wed. went to the FAR did a sick deadhang workout crimps, slopes pinches, campus brd w/ feet on, also did chest, shoulders, tri's and core!! Thurs. went back to bldrfields sent a v4 that I work on Tues. tried a bunch other problems! Gettin stronger so syked!
Week 4: Jogged everyday but Tues. Monday FAR - 5 sets 4x4's; System training, fingerboard, forearm curls. Tues. played bball did some pullups at the playground, chest/tris/shoulders. Wed. bldrfields feeling stronger. Thurs. bldrfields sent Pile v6. Sat FAR fingerboard, weighted pullups, core, forearm curls. 178lbs-24.5bf
Week 5: Mon. bldrfields worked Trip v5 and The Tree v7. Tues ran before work and at lunch went to the FAR bouldered 1 hour, fingerboard, forearm and core. Wed. jogged 2 miles played bball 45 minutes pullups on the monkey bars. Thurs. Super tired took a nap after work, went to the gym bouldered v4-v5 problems, 3 sets of 4x4's feeling pumped, fingerboard, core and pushups. Friday ran. Sat ran, pushups, arm burn out: bi's/tris/shoulders- 176.4lbs 21.9%bf
Week 6: Mon- Fri ran 2 miles ran twice on Tues and Fri. Mon FAR strength weight pullups, one arm locks, frenchies. Tues bball pushups and dips. Wed bldrfields feeling stronger work the Tree. Thurs FAR climbed 1 hour worked the fingerbrd. Fri FAR fingerbrd, pullups, core. Sat pushups.
Week 7: Super tired, No running ate bad, Tues went to bldrfields tired, Wed FAR tired, rested rest of the week
Week 8: Off week, did go to the bldrfields on Wed but felt tired. no motivation ate bad. Figured out why I have been so tired I'm allergic to b12 I started taking 500mcg 2 weeks ago stopped on Thurs of this week felt almost 100% by Sat.
Week 9: Mon feeling better FAR bouldered 1 hour v3-v5, system wall lockoffs, down campus, one arm locks big rubber band, killed core, fingerboard. Bldrfields worked Reignition v9 hard barely made the 2nd and 3rd moves, left went to climbing gym bouldered some more, chest and shoulders. Wed rest. Thurs. bldrfields climbed for fun.
Week 10: Ran every day this week. Mon FAR power, 10 hard boulder problem attempts, followed by 3 PE laps, 3x10 system wall deadpoints, deadpoints right and left hand grabs, 5x6 explosive pullups, 10 feet cuts. Tues. 10 hard boulders, 3 sets system locks-weak, 5 campus to lockoff-weak, 3 x system walls (slopers, gaston, undercling, pinches)-weak, core. Wed-antagonists, Thurs bldrfields Reiginition made 5 moves feeling stronger v3/4 circuit
Week 11: Ran everyday. Mon rest, Tues. ADD-ON Barrel wall 45 minutes, 3 system lock off, frenchies-weak, 3x4 lockoffs medium band, core. Wed - antagonists, Thurs - Boulderfields reignition rained out.
Week 12: Ran everyday. Mon bldrfields stuck crimp pinch for the first time and held on Reignition that rig is gonna go first cool day. Tues. FAR climbed 1 hour, 3 system campus-weak, 5 square lock offs on crimp system, Killed core! Wed- antagonists. Thurs. climbed 30 minutes elbow starting to hurt need a rest week.
Week 13: This week will be a rest week for climbing plan on running a ton and killing my core. Starting Power endurance next week.
OK well this was longer than I planned hope you were able to sort through it. It's been a successful 12 weeks of power and strength. I feel I improved on both a good bit. Still not pleased got a long way to go. Holler if you have any questions!
Peace,
EZ
Monday, June 14, 2010
Friday, June 11, 2010
Second Go
So here it is, I quit this rig already once. Figured why would I post a blog, I'm a nobody and with so many interesting peeps out there doing the same thing it was pointless. But then I realized this bloggy blog is to pay homage to my true homeboys that I kick it with on the regular trying to succeed in this pointless yet obsessive sport we call rock climbing, for my homies that I've met in travels that may stumble across this site and wonder what in the hell that crazy ass kid from Bamer has been up to, and most importantly for me. I love going back and looking at my post from a year ago. Seeing what I was up to, what I looked like and how I've changed. So I've changed this blog up a bit gave it a new name, new look, and dusted the cob webs off. The goal is to start posting more on my training in my ever long quest to obtain fitness, my conquests on the rock, what my boys have been doing, and maybe some personal thoughts followed by lots of pics.
OK so I think my last post was in October sometime, I was living in Huntsville and probably incredibly syked about the season coming. However by the time October rolled around I had gained to my all time heaviest which was due to work, beer, and borderline depression from living in Huntsville. Gaining weight is a funny thing, because you don't really realize you are gaining until it's too late. In December I crimped too hard for a fat boy and popped a tendon. BOOM POP done for the season, major depression set in, but also a new determination fire was lit in my belly and fuck it I was gonna get back in shape, as a matter of fact my "New Year's Resolution" was to be in the best physical climbing shape ever for the season 2010! I've had a long standing goal of accomplishing v10 by my 30th birthday, this leaves one more season!
Fast forward several months and a lot of shit has changed. So here I am I quit my job at NASA and took a job in Birmingham working with an environmental engineering company so that I could be closer to a "real climbing scene" and so that I could start to get my train on to accomplish my goals. This is where I'm gonna leave you. Up next will be some posts from my training journal and what I've accomplished these last two months.
Hope this finds everyone well and in good spirits!
~EZ
OK so I think my last post was in October sometime, I was living in Huntsville and probably incredibly syked about the season coming. However by the time October rolled around I had gained to my all time heaviest which was due to work, beer, and borderline depression from living in Huntsville. Gaining weight is a funny thing, because you don't really realize you are gaining until it's too late. In December I crimped too hard for a fat boy and popped a tendon. BOOM POP done for the season, major depression set in, but also a new determination fire was lit in my belly and fuck it I was gonna get back in shape, as a matter of fact my "New Year's Resolution" was to be in the best physical climbing shape ever for the season 2010! I've had a long standing goal of accomplishing v10 by my 30th birthday, this leaves one more season!
Fast forward several months and a lot of shit has changed. So here I am I quit my job at NASA and took a job in Birmingham working with an environmental engineering company so that I could be closer to a "real climbing scene" and so that I could start to get my train on to accomplish my goals. This is where I'm gonna leave you. Up next will be some posts from my training journal and what I've accomplished these last two months.
Hope this finds everyone well and in good spirits!
~EZ
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