Wednesday, November 26, 2008

INJURIES!!!!!

(WARNING: I am not a doctor and have scientific evidence to back to following statements. If you are injured please see a certified sports medicine doctor, and take extreme caution when rehabbing injured fingers. I am in no way responsible for any injury caused by following advice given below. This is how I do it and should be taken as advice only. Again please see a doctor if injured.)

WTF!! I mean I've been injury free for a year and three months. Climbed my ass off over the summer nothing- no tendinitis, no finger issues -nothing. Now the temps drops out the bottom and what happens, I strain my A1 on my right ring finger and my A2 on my left ring finger. PAIN, no crimp no jug hauling, nothing. Makes me sick I'm getting old a ripe 27 years; how much longer am I gonna be able to pull hard? Who knows but it really makes me anxious wasting any cold weather!

DAMN OK so for now here's the a little secret for you guys. If you don't know I been climbing for almost 9 years pretty long compared to some of the kids who are out breaking barriers crushing stone. I may not be breaking barriers but I have picked up a few tricks along the way. For finger injuries I discovered a technique that involves short cold/hot sessions. First get a bowl and fill it with water and a few cubes of ice. It's important to get the water cold but not freezing you want it to hurt a bit but still be able to keep your hand in.(Warning: Do not freeze your fingers. If the water is too cold you can kill the tissue and could potentially give your self frost bite) Start by placing the injured finger/hand into the cold water for five minutes, then have a bowl with hot water, again not boiling, hot enough that it stings but you are able to leave you hand in without extreme pain. Place you hang in the hot water, you should feel the blood rush into you hand and the injury will really tingle. If you can feel the tingle in the injured section of you finger then you are on the right track. Once you finish five minutes in the hot water pull out your hand and massage and stretch the injured finger. Its important to repeat about three times. Do three to five sessions a day and take a very low dose of Advil. I recommend staying off prescription anti-inflammatory. They tend to be too strong and when the inflammation is reduced too drastically you loose the blood which carries the nutrients needed to heal injuries. Plus a lot of them can cause weight gain as well as internal bleeding, liver problems and other harmful side effects. After a couple weeks tape the fingers up and do a few light hangs from the large rails of a finger board. I recommend not climbing anything steep, crimpy, or hard until there is zero pain. If there is pain, there is still an injury. After you can hang from a finger board with no pain tape up and start climbing. Begin slow give it a few weeks to regain strength and in no time you should be healthy.

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